The modern city of Yuriev 5 letters. Dorpat, Tartu, Yuryev
YURYEV (from 1030 to 1224 and from 1893 to 1919 - Yuryev, from 1224 to 1893 - Dorpat, after 1919 - Tartu), one of the oldest Russian cities in the Baltic states, 30 km from Lake Peipus. A permanent settlement arose in the 5th century. In the "Tale of Bygone Years" Yuryev (fortification) is mentioned in 1030 as the city of Yuryev, occupied and rebuilt by Yaroslav the Wise. Yuriev was of great strategic importance in the fight against the German crusader knights (1206-27). Protection of Yuryev by Estonians in alliance with Prince. Koknese Vyachko from the autumn of 1223 to the summer of 1224 ended with the defeat of the Estonians and decided further fate mainland Estonia. Yuriev became the center of the bishopric (principality). The Bishop's castle was founded, around which the city arose. Yuryev received city rights in the 1st half. 13th century From the 2nd floor. 13th century to ser. XVI - a member of the Hanseatic League, was important in the Hansa trade with Pskov and Novgorod. During Livonian War Yuriev's garrison capitulated to the Russian troops in 1558; in n. 1570s destroyed. According to the Yam-Zapolsky peace in 1582, he went to Poland. In the Polish-Swedish war in 1600 it was captured by Sweden, and in 1603 by Poland. From 1625 again passed to the Swedes. In 1630, an academic gymnasium was opened in Yuryev, in 1632 it was transformed into a university, which worked intermittently until 1699 (1699-1710 - in Pärnu). During the Livonian and other wars in Yuriev, there was a decline in trade and crafts. In the end of the XVII century. in Yuryev there were 2 thousand inhabitants. During Northern war On July 13, 1704, the Swedish garrison of Yuriev capitulated to the Russian troops; in 1708 completely destroyed. According to the Treaty of Nystadt in 1721, it was returned to Russia. The further development of Yuryev is connected with the Russian Yuryev (Derpt) University founded here, which played a prominent role in the history of science and culture in Russia.
Dorpat (German Dorpat) - a city in Estonia (now Tartu, Estonian Tartu) - one of the oldest cities in the Baltic states (in the X-XI centuries it was known as the settlement of the ancient Estonians - Tarpatu, although the permanent settlement on this site dates back to the 5th century ). Situated on both banks of the river. Emajygi, 30 km from its confluence with Lake Peipus. Mentioned for the first time. in "PVL" (1030) as the city of Yuryev, occupied and rebuilt led. book. Kyiv. Yaroslav the Wise (and named after him after his Christian name - Yuri). Before the beginning 13th century Yuriev was in close contact with nearby Pskov and Novgorod the Great. In 1215 he was captured by the Germans, but in 1223 he was released as a result of a general uprising of Estonians. A detachment of 200 people arrived from Novgorod to defend the city. led by the book Vyacheslav Borisovich (Vyachko). In 1224 after a long siege Yuryev was re-captured Livonian. knights who renamed it D. and made it the center of Dorpat. bishopric. From con. XIII to Ser. 16th century was in Hanseatic League and played an important role in his trade with Novgorod and Pskov. Under 1328 in Moscow. Chronicles noted a large fire in D.: “The same summer, the whole city of German Yuryev burned down, and the goddesses and stone pados, and the fire in the coats German 2000 and 500 and 30, and Russia 4 people.” Often D. mention. in the Novgorod chronicles and in the discharge records of the Livonian War of 1558-1583. In 1558 the Dorpat garrison capitulated to the Russians. According to the Yam-Zapolsky peace (1582), the city went to Poland. In 1600 it was captured by the Swedes, and in 1603 again by the Poles. In the summer of 1656, during the Russian-Swedish period. war, was taken by the Russians, but after an unsuccessful 2-month. the siege of Riga, they were forced to leave Livonia, including D. Of the ancient buildings, only the ruins of the 3-nave Vyshgorod Cathedral (XIII-XV centuries) and the Ivanovo Church (XIV century) have survived here.
City of Yuryev-Polsky in 1849
Yuryev-Polsky is located on the banks of the river. Koloksha and from the eastern side it bends around, insignificant in size, but remarkable for the battles that once took place on its banks, the river. Gzoyu, which flows into Koloksha from the left side, almost in the center of the city; the banks of the rivers here are low and swampy, and therefore Yuryev lies, as it were, in a pit. Its surroundings are open, undulating, and greatly command the city. Yuryev is a small, insignificant town, up to 4 versts in circumference; divided into 41 quarters and has 21 streets; three of them are the main ones: Pokrovskaya, starting from the Moscow outpost; A large one, going from the Gostiny Dvor to the exit to Pereyaslavl, and Lugovaya, cutting through the entire city and ending at the Vladimirskaya Zastava, and two more side ones, paved with stone. Lanterns 12. The best part of the city is the Kremlin, surrounded by an earthen rampart, which serves as a place for a walk for residents, and which is washed by the south side of the river. Gza. In the Kremlin there is: the house of government offices, the cathedral and the Archangel Monastery.The air is generally healthy, but the swampy soil of the earth produces fevers, though not dangerous ones.
State houses: stone 2, wooden 1; public: stone 3, wooden 2; private stone 83, wooden 400; 280. There are 15 churches in the city: 2 cathedral, 8 parish, 5 non-parish, including the cemetery and the abolished Annunciation. In addition, a church in the name of St. apostles Peter and Paul. Monasteries 2, male (Arkhangelsk) and female (Vveensky); surrounded by stone fences. St. George's Cathedral was built in 1152, along with the foundation of the city by Yuri Vladimirovich Dolgoruky; it is built entirely of white stone in the Byzantine style. At the end of the 18th century, a bell tower of 70 arsh was added to it. height, on which there are 11 BELLS, including ONE at 518 pounds. 38 pounds, donated by the merchant Kartsev. The crucifix is kept in the cathedral, carved from white stone, contemporary to Prince Svyatoslav III, and the relics of this prince under a bushel, as well as his son Dmitry. Among the church utensils there are contributions: Tsar Mikhail Feodorovich and Tsarina Evdokia, and several ancient letters of Russian tsars are kept. The Archangel Cathedral was founded in the 12th century under the Grand Duke Svyatoslav, in St. the baptism of Gabriel; with him a remarkable bell tower of 45 arsh. heights. It has 9 bells, one of which weighs 320 pounds, and was donated by the merchant Kartsev. Of the contributions in this cathedral, the gospel donated by Tsars John and Peter Alekseevich and Tsarevna Sofya Alekseevna, in memory of their brother Theodore Alekseevich, is remarkable; two letters are also kept there: one of Tsar Vasily Ioannovich, 1606, the other of Mikhail Feodorovich, 1625.
Wooden Gostiny Dvor with 78 shops, 3 wine cellars, 1 tavern, 10 taverns, 8 inns, one haberdashery shop; grocery store 1, wooden, 12 sazhens long, 4 ½ sazhens wide. outside the city, state-owned, for 1500 quarters; salt shops 9, all wooden, each 5 soots. length, and 4 fathoms. width; each can fit up to 12,000 pounds. salt; drinking office 1, drinking houses 7; Pharmacies 2: one state-owned at the hospital, the other private.
Buildings engaged in the posting of troops: a stone two-story building, 25 sazhens long. 2 ½ arsh.; on the sides: on the right 10 sazhens, on the left 9 sazhens. 1 arsh.; width 3 sazhens. 2 ½ arshins. Stone stables 15 sazhens long. 2 arsh., 3 sazhens wide. 2 ½ arsh. Wooden stables, 16 sazhens long, 5 sazhens wide. Wooden barn, 12 sazhens long, 2 arsh wide; a wooden shed 15 sazhens long and 4 arsh wide, both covered with boards. Wooden arena, covered with a plank, given 16 sazhens. 2 ½ arsh., 8 sazhens wide, an extension is attached to it, covered with boarding, 11 sazhens long. 2 arsh., and a width of 3 sazhens. Wooden tagged locksmith, 2 sazhens long and wide. 1 ½ arshin. Wooden forge, 3 sazhens long. 2 arsh., 3 sazhens wide. 1 arsh. Wooden, covered and sheathed with boards, guardhouse, 8 fathoms long. 1 arsh., 4 sazhens wide. 2 arsh. All these buildings, except for the guardhouse, belong to the city society.
There are two educational institutions: county and parish schools for 110 people; there are two charitable institutions: a stone hospital with 10 beds; in 1849, 51 men and 2 women used it; an almshouse, where only abandoned babies are kept at the expense of the city and poor women live: in 1849, 1 male and 18 female people were contemplated in it; a stone prison with two compartments for guards and two baths; it has a hospital with two beds.
Factories in the city: 10 calico, weaving and paper and motley factories, producing up to 1,025,000 rubles a year. silver. A bleaching establishment (for calico) for 2000 rubles. silver; tanneries 2, in the amount of 22,300 rubles. silver; candle factory - for 6600 rubles; greasy plant pa 4000 rub. silver. Mills 4: one on the river. Koloksha and 3 windmills.
The city owns 400 soots. land leased for 131 rubles. 3"/4 kopecks in silver. The city's annual income is 2,022 rubles. 33 ¼ kopecks in silver.
Residents in the city husband. sex 1835, female 19209, not counting the lodging troops, a total of 3764 souls.
The nobles of the local county live on their estates. Declared capital for 303,600 rubles. silver; of which two are 2 guilds and 114 are 3 guilds.
/Military Statistical Review Russian Empire. Volume VI. Part 2. Vladimir province. Saint Petersburg. 1852./
July 31st, 2015
Among the Vladimir-Suzdal opolye, which is divided between the Meshchersky region and the taiga forests of the Russian North, on the Zalessky lands, ancient Russian settlers from more southern lands once settled. Russia grew to the northeast. And ancient city Yuryev-Polsky (founded in 1152) is located among picturesque fields and hills with birch groves. It is from the fields - Vladimir opolie, that the second part of the city's name comes, which many associate with Poland, thereby causing bewilderment. But the name of the city became double so that it would not be confused with several other cities with the name Yuryev, among which is the current Estonian city of Tartu. By the way, it is also noteworthy that the latter was founded by Prince Yaroslav the Wise, who named the city by his baptismal name, and Yuryev-Polsky was founded, like Moscow, by Yuri Dolgoruky. Now Yuryev-Polsky is a regional center of the Vladimir region with a population of 19 thousand people. I went to this city on January 29, the penultimate day of my stay on Vladimir land.
Yuryev-Polsky is about 70 kilometers northwest of Vladimir, towards Yaroslavl region and the city of Pereslavl-Zalessky (which before the revolution was also part of the Vladimir province). Buses here from Vladimir go regularly. I was late for one of them (and for a stupid reason - I forgot to cash out the money from the card in advance and was looking for a place where this could be done in the vicinity of the bus station), but I had to wait only an hour for the next one. The bus drove through hills and fields, among the picturesque Central Russian landscapes. Perhaps here it is really more beautiful in summer than in winter. But after all, I have not been to Pereslavl-Zalessky yet, so my re-entry to these places, including in the summer, is not excluded. The bus goes through the whole city, and most passengers get off in the center. Left alone on the bus, I decided to still get to the bus station in order to immediately buy a ticket back to Vladimir.
2. This is how the bus station looks like (a bright one-story building on the right). By the way, there is a train station a little further. Through Alexandrov, Yuryev-Polsky and Kolchugino, a single-track diesel locomotive passes, leading to Ivanovo. A night train from Moscow passes here every day.
At first, by the way, I also wanted to go to Kolchugino - a city not so interesting in historical and cultural terms, but of interest to me as a private Vladimir region, and also, of course, the birthplace of Soviet coasters :) But to combine the bus schedule (as always, between neighboring regional centers, they go much less than to the regional center) with a winter daylight hours was not possible.
3. Having bought a ticket for the return bus, I walked to the center along Vokzalnaya Street. So far, there are ordinary five-story buildings on the way, but in the future, the bell tower of the Church of the Intercession (1769) is visible.
4. Passed by the kindergarten:
5. The younger generation of Yuryevpol:
6. On the right - the buildings of the Promsvyaz plant, which produces electrical equipment. This is one of the city-forming enterprises of modern Yuryev-Polsky.
8. On the way, I met such a rickety hut. And someone else lives there! Smoke billows from the chimney...
9. I approach the bank of the Koloksha River, on which the city has grown. In front of the bridge is a memorial dedicated to fellow countrymen who died on the Great Patriotic war. Several names on the plates are, as I understand it, natives of the city who became Heroes of the Soviet Union.
10. And on the other side of the Koloksha (the river itself is visible in the foreground) is the former Yuryev-Polsky Kremlin: an earthen rampart and cathedrals - Georgievsky and Trinity.
11. Bridge over the river. I did not go through it and "broke the system" - I crossed the river on ice :) In winter, there are even trodden paths there, and somewhere near the shore I saw fishermen sitting alone.
12. An earthen rampart seven meters high has not been completely preserved. It was poured in 1152 by decree of Yuri Dolgoruky, who founded the city. It is easy to guess that, as in Vladimir, and in Suzdal, and in Galich, and many other places, in winter the shaft serves as a slide from which children ride on ice rinks.
And the fortress over the centuries of its existence managed to take on a lot of enemy blows. Three times the city was ravaged by the Mongols, and during the Troubles - also by the Poles ... The Poles ravaged Yuryev-Polsky - how it sounds!
13. Having passed through the shaft, I came closer to the ensemble of St. George and Trinity Cathedrals. In the background, by the way, you can also see the Archangel Michael Monastery.
14. St. George's Cathedral can be considered a pre-Mongolian temple, although the original appearance has not completely survived to this day. The first cathedral in honor of the Great Martyr George the Victorious, the patron saint of Yuri Dolgoruky, was founded at the foundation of the city, but it was located in a slightly different place. The current temple was erected in 1230-1234 by the decree of Prince Svyatoslav Vsevolodovich, but underwent changes after reconstruction in 1471.
15. The decor of the facade immediately speaks of Vladimir-Suzdal architecture, giving the cathedral a resemblance to the Dmitrievsky Cathedral of Vladimir and the Church of the Intercession on the Nerl.
19. Cross over a one-domed church:
Interestingly, the current appearance of St. George's Cathedral is closer to the original than it was a little more than a hundred years ago. During the XVIII-XIX centuries, the ancient temple was almost hidden in new outbuildings - first the bell tower, then the Trinity chapel, then the sacristy. At the beginning of the 20th century, however, they decided to return the temple to the state it had acquired in the 15th century, and for this all the extensions were dismantled.
The dismantled Trinity chapel was replaced by a new temple in the neighborhood. The Holy Trinity Cathedral was built in the pseudo-Russian style in 1913-1915. As you might guess, he did not have to work long. In the 1930s, the cathedral was closed, deprived of domes and turned into an electrical substation.
20. Now the restoration of the cathedral is underway, but it is still quite difficult to identify the temple in this building.
So there are two cathedrals of approximately the same size next door. Georgievsky is even a little smaller than Troitsky, but eight hundred years older.
AT Soviet times in a closed monastery housed a museum-reserve. Interestingly, it still operates today, side by side with the monks within the walls of the revived monastery.
22. This is how the entrance to the monastery looks like. This is a view outside, that is, towards the exit to the city.
23. The cathedral and the bell tower make up the center of the monastery. Looking closely, you can determine by its architectural appearance that the bell tower is a hundred years older than the Cathedral of Michael the Archangel. Baroque features are already discernible in the cathedral, and it was built in 1792-1806; in St. Petersburg at that time, classicism was already spreading, but the architectural lagging of the provinces from the capitals is a frequent phenomenon.
24. Gate Church of John the Theologian built in 1670. The entrance to the monastery shown above is visible on the left, and the trees in the foreground are apparently the monastery garden.
26. Fraternal cell building - the second half of the XVIII century:
27. Monastery wall:
28. There is also a monument of wooden architecture in the monastery. The Church of St. George the Victorious, dating from around the end of the 17th century, was brought to the Yuryev-Polsky Museum-Reserve from the village of Yegorye in the 1960s. There are similar examples in Suzdal.
29. Visitors can also climb the monastery bell tower, which offers a good view of the city and its surroundings. Only the premises here are cramped, about which visitors are warned even twice.
In one of the interior rooms there is a small exposition dedicated to the history of the city, and there the woman caretaker asks, firstly, to be careful when climbing the steep spiral staircase, and secondly, to tightly close the door to the belfry so that they do not blow cold winter air, and thirdly, do not ring the bells. However, I successfully coped with all three requests.
30. This is how the monastery belfry looks like:
31. Gate Church:
33. Znamenskaya refectory church (1625), attached to the fraternal building:
34. Chetverik and cupolas of the Michael-Arkhangelsk Cathedral. At a cursory glance, you can’t distinguish it from the gate church.
35. Behind the cathedral and several city houses, the snow-covered expanses of Vladimirsky Opolye are perfectly visible, from which the city of Yuryev-Polsky received the second part of its name.
36. Closer view:
Beautiful, in general. And, perhaps, in relation to this particular place, I could even agree with the adherents of the postulate "You should travel in the summer !!111", although it is also not bad here in winter.
37. Another view of the monastery belfry with the gate church in the background:
And I go down from the bell tower and then I leave the monastery.
38. Another view of the monastery, already outside.
39. Within the boundaries of the former Kremlin, next to the monastery, the old county buildings of the 19th-20th centuries have been partially preserved. This building is now the location of the police station.
40. In the neighborhood - another memorial to the Great Patriotic War:
41. Old houses opposite the monastery:
42. Having passed the monastery walls along May 1st, I went to the very center of the city. This is Soviet Square. I will cautiously suggest that in the past it was called Torgovaya.
43. Here is the northern side of the rampart. And in the distance, the bell tower of the Intercession Church is again visible.
44. Several new buildings. And in the background you can see the shopping malls of the 19th century, according to which I suggested the former name of the square.
46. Snow-covered rampart, behind which crosses and the tops of the towers of the monastery look out.
47. And the leader of the world proletariat in the neighborhood:
48. The square also offers a good view of the Archangel Michael Monastery. By the way, I was pleased that here, too, the New Year tree is real, as in Galich.
49. The aforementioned street on May 1 continues after Sovetskaya Square, becoming a pedestrian street. On both sides are the buildings of the Trade Rows.
50. Apparently, this is a traditional place for unhurried walks of Yuryevpol residents and guests of the city.
51. Reverse view. From here the monastery is also well visible.
52. Old county building. True, it does not do without Soviet inclusions. The white two-story building is apparently still constructivism.
53. Hospital:
54. And on the contrary - an orphanage. By the way, now it is difficult to determine, but initially it was ... an Orthodox church! The Church of the Resurrection of Christ, built at the end of the 18th century (here, by the way, there is no architectural lag), and converted into Soviet years. If you do not know, then this building can easily be mistaken for a Stalin-era house of culture.
Having walked to the end of May 1st Street (which, by the way, used to be called Voskresenskaya, exactly after the church shown), I turned onto Shkolnaya Street.
57. Two churches - Nikolskaya in the foreground (1666), and in the background - Vvedenskaya (1763-1766):
58. Again I cross the river Koloksha - a tributary of the Klyazma. But this time already on the bridge, and not on the ice. By the way, it looks like there used to be a suspension bridge here - the structures on the right indicate exactly this.
By the way, outwardly this place reminded me of the bridge across the Tikhvinka in Tikhvin next to the monastery.
60. School No. 1 and children running from lessons. The building is clearly pre-revolutionary, apparently from the beginning of the 20th century. I would venture to suggest that it was originally a district gymnasium or college.
61. Or maybe the management of a weaving factory located next door.
62. Yuryev-Polish courts. It's pretty cozy here too.
63. Locals:
65. In late Soviet residential architecture, original solutions are sometimes found.
66. Koloksha again and the buildings of the weaving factory in front. There is a dam on the river, now, as I understand it, is no longer used.
67. Having passed through the pedestrian bridge, I again went out onto May 1 Street, which runs along the buildings of the weaving factory.
68. In one of the yards stands the Church of the Nativity of Christ (1700), lost among the five-story buildings and pipes of communications. The view is certainly interesting. It's easier to think that it's somewhere in the Far North than in Central Russia.
69. View from a different angle. In the foreground is the Borisoglebskaya Church (1792).
70. Old building opposite the weaving factory. However, I never found out what it was.
71. And this red brick building looks like a warehouse:
72. And here is the weaving factory itself. Founded in 1895 by the merchant A. V. Ganshin, it produced textile products, which took part in international exhibitions in Western Europe. And it continues to work today.
73. In the perspective of the street, the bell tower of the non-functioning Peter and Paul Monastery (end of the 19th century) is visible, to which for some reason I did not think to get closer, although there was already a little left.
74. At the weaving factory, meanwhile, work is in full swing. And it boils in the literal sense, - judging by the steam generator. A water tower is visible in the background, apparently also late XIX century.
75. This small square is the furthest place in the city that I have reached.
76. Pretty nice stalinka. Apparently pre-war.
77. Another look at the bell tower of the Peter and Paul Monastery.
79. Another, perhaps more spectacular, angle with the Church of the Nativity, which is much older than the houses surrounding it.
80. Playground. In the background, the Vvedenskaya Church is visible, shown in photo 57.
81. Perspective of May 1 Street with zoom. The Archangel Michael Monastery, the Trinity Cathedral, and the dome of St. George's Cathedral are perfectly visible.
On the way back, I no longer went through the former fortress and past the monastery, but bypassed the rampart on the western side.
82. And I was able to see the ensemble of two churches closer, the high bell tower of which is also visible from many points of the city (photos 3 and 43). White, with five cupolas, - Pokrovskaya (1769), single-dome, with a rotunda - the martyr Nikita (1796).
So I returned to the bus station and on the old PAZik drove back to Vladimir, where I was to have my last evening in this city.
